The Father of the Bolshevik Revolution
We packed in several trips, including one
bus tour around Moscow, and two riverboat cruises, one down the Moscow channel
and one down the Moscow river. Incredible scenery. I saw Lenin’s preserved
body! We paid 400 hundred rubles along with about thirty other people to cut
into the long line up to see Lenin. It took only half an hour and the old lady
that took our money and our foto-aparats, seemed to know a whole lot about red
square and gave us the whole history of it and surrounding downtown Moscow as
we waited that half hour. We then cut into line and I’m sure the guards letting
us in took their cut of the 400-Rubles I and the twenty-nine others gave to the
old lady…. "Normalna", it’s the way it’s
done in Moscow.
Vladimir Illeech Uolianav Lenin lay
patiently waiting for us all to pass. He didn’t move a muscle. His suit was black,
and he did not wear a cap. He was a short guy. His hair was red. His beard was
red. His face was emotionless, serene. His shoes blackened well and practical
for long walks that central Moscow is known for. To me, he looked like a wax
figure of Lenin, but my wife assured me that what’s under that glass case is
truly a mummified Lenin that they “restore” every couple of years. Where he
lies is about three stories underground and it’s very cool down there – a temperature-controlled
mausoleum. We went down steps and at every corner very serious young Kremlin
police officers stood guard in honour of their past. Don’t talk! Don’t laugh!
Don’t look left or right! Don’t fart! This is a Mausoleum! Serious, very
serious, looks all around. And there lay the father of the Bolshevik
revolution, patiently enduring post-perestroika Russia.
And, in direct contravention of Orthodox
Christian tradition, laid to rest in full view of many a capitalist. Persevered, not buried six-feet under (as Orthodox worm-wood usually is
required to be). I tried to manage a tear or an emotion, padding softly and
silently by the icon, but strangely, could not muster anything at all. The
tangible emptiness of 100-odd years of forced religious repression in Russia
must have swallowed up any and all urges towards emotion, or tears – at least
for me. All I really felt was: “wow, that’s Lenin, he looks like a wax figure.
I just now saw Lenin.” And I thought further, what a thing to have done in
life! How many of my relatives, my countrymen, can say the same? Not much more
thought by me beyond that as I drifted through the surrealistic tomb of this
guy, responsible for so much that I know really, very little about.
Further, not to speak ill of the dead or
anything, but how is one supposed to shed a tear or lend even a moment’s passionate
regret for the loss of the leader of a regime that claimed pure socialist
values on the one hand and simultaneously exhibited criminal levels of corrupt
bureaucracy and severely debilitating religious suppression at the expense of
its own citizenry on the other? No wonder the empty feeling….
I saw none of the
other capitalists, sentimentalists, Non-muscovite Russian citizens who came to
pay a visit, behind nor before, make any Russian Orthodox genuflections of any
sort whatsoever when filing by the Lenin’s mummy. Thousands upon thousands of capitalists,
paying tourists file by silently between 7:00 and 13:00 daily. I imagined that
the ghost of Lenin probably was hovering above us, ready to swoop and strangle
someone, anyone, all of us, for a travesty such as this. The old lady who took
our money and foto-aparats met us as we emerged from the depths of Bolshevik
ideology. She didn’t look at all afraid of being severely guilty of crimes
against the state – taking money from tourists to cut in line to see the very
icon of communism in Russia…. She looked pretty fresh actually and took us on
the rest of the tour near the wall of the Kremlin castle where in are buried
the ashes of prominent communists from every country of the world. Yuri
Gagarin’s trip into space in 1961 earned his ashes a spot in the Kremlin wall
too. Opposite the wall in more conventional burial plots, lie the bodies of
past presidents of Russia: Chernyenko, Andropov, & Stalin, along with all
the dead Generals who had made their communist marks hither and thither over
all the years.
All at once the tour was over. We were
directed out by our knowledgeable tour guide in to the general non-fenced off
area of the huge Red square and handed back our foto-aparats with a stern
warning not to use them until we were well outside the Kremlin boundary, for
fear of police confiscating our fot-aparats.
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